Even though I have driven through both of these villages countless times since I arrived in Provence, I had yet to stop, park, and wander. Both towns are on a route clearly marked as a road that will provide access to some of the most outstanding Castles and medieval architecture in the south of France.

The first on the list today is the village of Lourmarin. There is a spectacular chateau that dominates the skyline no matter which direction you approach from. This chateau is in fantastic condition and lived in by local nobility. Not only can you wander around outside its walls, but if you arrive at the correct times, you can tour the inside as well.

For several years now, the chateau has been used as a venue for classical concerts all the way to modern-day music festivals and most everything in between. This clearly indicates a place that appeals to an extensive age range. From a Chopin recital with a chilled flute of champagne in the garden to an electronic trance concert with ecstasy tabs in a field (I would assume).

The history of this village dates back at least a thousand years and was probably a Neolithic campsite before that. A fortress was first built at the current site in the 12th century. It was rebuilt by Foulques d'Agoult in the 15th century on the foundations of the earlier castle. It was restored in 1920. In 1545 the town was burned down because its population was predominantly Protestant. I did my research before arrival. That homework certainly provided a different scope of understanding as I wandered about trying to put into perspective the where's and whys from both a visitor's and neighbour's perspective.

Lourmarin has a luxury vibe about it. Not unlike Menerbes, which I visited several weeks ago now. My senses were placed on overload as I took an opportunity to drop in to dozens of artisan galleries and boutiques. The sights, sounds and smells were fabulous. Each seemed to compliment the other so that as if by magic, I felt relaxed, content and generally in my happy place.

The village is easy to wander because it is one of the very few I have visited this year that was built on flat ground and well below the ramparts and fortifications of the chateau. I arrived just after sunrise, I expected to enjoy a physical challenge before the temperature made it uncomfortable. The terrain guaranteed I could have stayed in bed for a couple more hours and still not felt any effects of the heat.

Before leaving Lourmarin, I stopped for a beautiful espresso, and people watched for a while. As time pushed on, it seemed as though I was witnessing a 1960's straw fedora convention. One in six men (tourists not locals) that crossed my bow seemed to fancy themselves as Rat Pack impersonators. Before you think I am confusing these hats with their Panama cousins, I am not! I take issue with this. It's clearly a bugbear of mine. Those hats are to be accompanied by 60's style well tailored suits and pencil-thin ties. They are not, repeat, not to be worn with sandals, board shorts and muscle shirts no matter how good or bad shape you are in. Don't, just don't! You look ridiculous. Buy a ball cap for christ's sake. Buy a stetson, buy a bucket hat. Switch on man, switch on!

More narrative below!

Cucuron is the next village along from Lourmarin as you travel southeast. I must admit that we have had a couple of lovely meals here at L’etang in the past, but the remainder of Cucuron needed to be explored as well. Arriving at noon precludes the opportunity to visit any shops or museums as it is lunchtime. Most everyone knows time stands still in France at lunch. The only places open will be serving food. No matter if your appetite says just a nibble or the local's preferred combination of the "formule" (entrèe, plat du jour and dessert or frommage).

You will sit and enjoy whatever your choice may be, and you will sit for at least an hour and a half to ensure digestion and satiety. You will most likely begin with a glass of Pastis, followed by a Monaco and then a good bottle of local plonk with your meat, poultry, or fish choice. No one leaves the table until the obligatory espresso is finished and restful smiles are on faces.

This lifestyle seems to contribute to the life span of locals because the percentage of octogenarians or older is very high. Sitting on benches, walking their dogs, chatting with neighbours, all the while chain-smoking yellow-papered cigarettes. I am actually getting used to the smell and don't nearly despise it as much as I once did. Perhaps these local darts are in fact an ingredient in their elixir of life??

I don't plan on starting this very expensive habit, but it seems to compliment the Mediterranean diet and remaining active. I am almost 100% sure that none of these local seniors needed to go to the gym before work in their day and similarly would never even think to utter the word yoga. If you go into business in Provence, don't choose to be a funeral director. A distinct lack of work and the inability to charge more for XXL caskets will keep you from a comfortable retirement.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Cucuron. The quiet cafe culture is dotted all over the village. It provides even more opportunity to lower my blood pressure and centre my chi (I looked it up and now know what it means). I hope this episode finds you in your happy place?

Please leave a comment if you have time.

Live well!

Mark

All the images in this blog were captured with the Leica M10-R.