MARSEILLE… GREAT DAY…
It’s getting harder and harder to get out of bed at sunrise. I am really starting to get comfortable here. The house is nearly done and feeling homely. Yesterday was a rest and recovery day coupled with a little DIY. We did drive into Coustellet in the morning for a few things for lunch but that was as far afield as we got.
Last night we decided on heading back into Marseille this morning to have a good look around. We wanted to explore the old city and walk the corniche that stretches for miles and miles along the coastline of the Southside. I thought (wrongly as it turns out) that setting off around 7:30 this morning would keep us clear of heavy traffic and provide for a relaxing trip into the big smoke. Marseille has a population of 1,613,797.
Having scraped the surface there before several times it seemed plausible that the A7 highway should be fine until we reached the city limits. I shouldn’t ever gamble! I know my limit and I stay within it 99% of the time. From the second we drove down the hill from Bonnieux to join the main road, things got mental. It started with a lady who was clearly late for work, trying to manage her social media feed and having a hard time putting down her VAPE. She decided to drive loosely attached to our trunk for several KM’s until I decided to go around the roundabout twice so that she could get ahead of me and right in behind her next victim.
Our next foe was the less than optimal operator of the local school bus specifically designed for kids with physical disabilities. Im not making this up. The van was covered in stickers advertising its purpose. The driver was determined to pass every car that came into his way (oncoming big rigs and farm machinery where no match). It was like watching the Monaco Grand Prix except the race car was a Ford Transit van filled with kids in wheel chairs. The look on their faces as the van passed us on a blind corner was a combination of fear and familiarity. Ive never seen anything like it in my life. It didn’t get much better than that all the way into Marseilles but once we arrived we threw off the shackles of motoring fear and started our day by wandering in earnest.
The last three images were taken on the grounds of the Aix-Marseille University. Its a beautiful campus that has used these beautiful historical buildings to establish its self as a venue not only for higher learning but for sightseeing as well. The parkland around the campus is very well manicured and the flowers are stunning.
From there we made our way down to the beach and the corniche that took us for miles along the coast. I have several images from that part of our day and I will attach them next so that you can get a feel for the place and the people.
As we wound our way around the corniche we caught a glimpse of the wonderful war memorial on the coast just ahead. As we arrived we were entertained by a 30 something American couple who had decided to use the memorial for some “Insta Bangers” for their “gram”. They spent a good 15 minutes swapping the prized iPhone back and forward to each other while the “model” took a position near the script recording the war dead and their sacrifice to France and then repeatedly performed star jumps until the photographer could catch the “model” off the ground. This therefore providied their millions of followers some wicked shots and hopefully a shit ton of “likes”. I could write several posts on social conciseness and spacial awareness and I probably will, but it may not be too PC. I need to think about it first. I’m trying so hard to like humans but I will confide in you its not going too well.
We wandered on from the memorial along the coast but stopped regularly for the coves. Every 500 meters or so locals can moor their boats and the businesses around seem to cater to repairs. I can’t tear down a marine motor but I would love to sit around with the men that do and shoot the shit while soaking up the Mediterranean sunshine.
After many a kilometre walked, we decided that if the parishioners of Cathedral Notre Dame on the highest point in the city could climb to the top for service on a regular basis then who are we to not suffer once in a while. So off we went. Hard left from the corniche and there we began the trek “Everest” to the top of the hill and the waiting beacon of a Cathedral. I would be happy to describe it as a gradual climb up from the beach but that would be a fib of epic proportion. About half an hour into it I was regretting my missed confessions and lamenting leaving Catholicism classes before confirmation. This was going to be payback on biblical terms (for real).
Up we kept going and up went my heart rate with every step. At one point I considered a breach of commandment by pickpocketing some rosary beads from a passing pilgrim. With those I could get to praying big style. Perhaps God would take mercy on my soul & prevent my cardiac arrest on the side of that French mountain. I’m not sure how but I lived. At one point I would have rather chucked in the holy towel (available at the gift shop on the way out) than take one more step.
When you do finally reach the top, you are provided not only with access to the Cathedral but also the best panoramic views of Marseille. Its a big city and this is a place where you can grasp that in full.
Now that I'm back on the confession train, I swear if nobody was watching inside the cathedral I would have chugged the holy water, and let Covid be damned. Dehydration makes a man consider really poor choices.
First things first Why did I think I was required to suffer like some sort of latter day disciple. Why did I walk the entire way when as you will notice 95% percent of the visitors drove their Renault Magane’s up to the parking lot right in front of the cathedral. Or worse, they climbed aboard one of those grotty little train buses. Self respect means nothing these days, especially for those who wish to conserve energy for their soon to be obligatory McDonalds stop for a Royale with Cheese or two! All kidding aside, the time and effort put in to get up here was definitely worth it. This is a must see when visiting Marseille.
After a spectacular visit, then it was time for what goes up, must come down. And so we did. We walked down, down, down and further down. My ears popped so often, that at one point I felt I was in a bathysphere.
Eventually we arrived back on terra firma. We headed for last weeks lunch spot named Pastis & Olives. We devoured our lunches and Negroni’s and let our feet rest for a bit. Bill paid and back on the hoof towards the inner harbour and marina. We soaked up a little more sun and a much more touristy vibe before pushing back to the car and our drive home. Tomorrow will see us in Cucuron for morning coffee and a “Village Diary” entry. Sleep is now on the cards and I hope to have the energy remaining to not wake up dead. Oak Bay Fire Dept is off the hook for this AED call.
Please leave a comment or suggestion like “please stop writing this drivel”. Much appreciated.
Bon Soir!
Live well…
p.s. All photos taken with the Leica M10-R and the Leica Q2.
