MY FIFTH EPISODE OF THE VILLAGE DIARIES, IT’S NICE TO HAVE NICE NEIGHBOURS!

Thank you for stopping by. If this isn't your first visit, thank you very much for returning to the Luberon. But, if this is your first time, then what you will find here is a snapshot (pardon the pun) of where I go and what I see as I settle into life here in the south of France.

I write in a chair on the top floor of our home in front of a large open window. The view is an expansive one that takes in the entirety of the north side of the Luberon valley. It is much later tonight than I would usually be up. So, from time to time I stop typing and peer out to the North, gaze at both the stars and the village lights of Gordes and Roussillon in the distance.

In this episode, I have focused on one of our neighbouring villages to the Southwest. Menerbes was named in honour of Minerva, Roman goddess, daughter of Jupiter. Menerbes, like many other villages in the area, traces its roots back to Romans times. But, like many other local villages, it seemed to really establish itself in the middle ages due to the crusades and the resulting influx of Carmelites. They built many of the priories and abbeys in the surrounding area.

History states that Ménerbes and its citadel was the site of a significant battle between Huguenots and Catholics called the siege de Ménerbes, which lasted from 1573 to 1578. This period was known as the French war of Religions. Protestants intentionally aggravated Pope Pius the 5th by settling 150 soldiers in Ménerbes, led by Scipione de Valvoire, Gaspard Pape de Saint-Auban.

As time marched on, Menerbes has become better known for the finer things in life. Many artists and poets have called this place home for years. In the latter half of the last century, Picasso's girlfriend (Dora Maar) would take long sabbaticals from Antibes and came here to rest in Menerbes to use her camera as inspiration for her painting. The British novelist Peter Mayle was the latest celebrated author in the area, but sadly he is no longer with us. If you have never had the opportunity to read Peter's books about his life in France but more specifically, his life in and around Menerbes and Bonnieux, please give "A year in Provence" or "A good year" a thorough read.

Couple his words to the following images, and I'm sure you will soon be transported to the sights, smells and tastes of this region. For those who have had the privilege to read his books, you will be keenly aware that his work reflects life in this valley and how he and his wife renovated their home, learned the language and wove themselves into the fabric of the valley. I am a massive fan of all his collection. Mr. Mayle was singularly responsible for igniting a tourist frenzy here, much to many people's chagrin; however, it goes to show the power of his storytelling.

The Brown Foundation Fellows Program based at Dora Maar's former home in Menerbes provides residencies of one to three months for mid-career professionals in the arts and humanities to develop and grow their craft.

I like Menerbes. It is unique in this valley. The home prices in the real estate agent's windows reflect that. The people here are happy, and it seems impossible to feel unwelcome. You are really spoiled for choice in Menerbes. If you feel like a Michelin star meal or just a coffee, simply follow your nose. This village must have one of the highest ratios of restaurants and cafes with spectacular views from a terrace in France. I am yet to visit in the evening, so I can't begin to imagine which restaurant to recommend. Still, I have had coffee on several stunning patios that have all been unbelievably smooth and exceptional in quality. Yesterday morning I happened to notice a well-healed gentleman enjoying a pastis while overlooking the valley to the east at around 8 o'clock. I am not judging; it was obviously 5 o'clock somewhere.

Please leave a comment; I love to read them!

Live well,

Mark

p.s. All my images below were captured with the Leica M10-R and the Leica Q-2.