Some 24 hrs have passed since I last wrote. Torrential rain and Gail force winds made our Saturday morning less than enjoyable to say the least. Is was not for several hours after arriving in Reeth did the rains stop and the sun appear.

Our accommodation for this stop was the Black Bull Hotel. Built in 1640 it is a grade 2 listed building and therefore must be kept in or as close to its original condition as possible. The National Parks service enforces these rules according to the hotel’s gruff yet more than affable landlord.

Upon entering the hotel’s pub we were greeted by a roaring coal fire and a wonderful Labrador dog. Jensen ( the dog ) is named after Jensen Button the F1 race car driver. Once again British humour plays heavy as Jensen is about as pokey and slow as they come.

Regardless of his pace, Jensen is a well mannered loving dog who sat with us by the fire for ages. As the locals began to filter in they brought more dogs. Mostly all of these were gun dog breeds. The locals were clearly arriving to watch Manchester United play Liverpool FC on Sky. The locals will also at the same time be keeping the afternoon’s barmaid gainfully employed pulling pints to quench not only their thirst for footy but their thirst for copious pints of Stella.

At half time Dale saw a break in the weather so we ventured out to recce the village. First stop was the village shop to get post cards for me and a pork pie and fully homogenized milk for Dale. I think it would be fair to say if Dale was to loose all his senses but one it may be the sense of taste he may want Sell his soul to hang on to. Taste, because to savour the childhood memories of pork pies and fully homogenized milk is clearly important to my pal.

We then took up a seated position on a park bench in the village green. The green is situated on a high spot in the village and all of the hotels, churches, shops and some homes surround it. You have a perfect view of the hills that also stand to both the north and south. After a few minutes we walked into the Reeth museum that chronicles the village life as well as the lead mining that kept the locals employed for many years. The exhibits were interesting and the curator was extremely helpful.


After a further explore around the village we returned to the Black Bull for dinner followed by some Simon Cowell and the rest of his no name panel judges on ITV’s X-Factor. Sadly but expected, the best part was the commercials. Off to sleep now and early to rise. We are off to Richmond in the morning. Richmond is the biggest town on our journey. Lots to see and do and about 5 hours walk from here.



  1. Say a vegan was doing this walk. What would be the alternative to pork pies? Mushy peas daily for a fortnight? Or just more beer? Is there any beer left in England? What happens in a man’s stomach when homogenized milk, pint after pint of beer, and pork pies mingle? Does that man sleep at night? Does his roommate? Does anyone in the hotel? I’m thinking “Black Bull” is an appropriate name if you catch my drift.
    … Great work. Keep it up.


  2. Hi Mark, I hope the sun shines brightly on you on your way to Richmond. We are all thinking about you and sending you lots of love. xxx


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