We awoke this morning in Kirby Stephen and set sail for Keld. Keld is in the North Yorkshire National Park and is a tiny little hamlet at the bottom of a dale to the north of the village of Hawes. On the way we went past the ruins of Pendragon Castle and many fields of sheep and wild horses to add to the attractions. Hawes is bigger and is known for many things including a factory that makes old fashioned hand made ropes and the world famous Wensleydale creamery.

The creamery is the home of Wensleydale cheese. The facility and shop were fabulous. Lots of sampling and the option to stay a while to tour or to sit in their own little pub. For those of you or your children who’ve enjoyed the Wallace and Grommet movies you would enjoy the numerous clever souvenirs around the shop.

We went from there northward to the Tan Hill Pub. This is the most remote and highest pub by elevation in England. Talk about history and ambiance. A coal fired hearth was raging and it was very cozy and warm. Even though we have had good weather the wind tears across the mountain tops viciously. The barman told us that the first skiff of snow comes later this month. Everyone who lives in the area are Land Rover owners and have been for generations. We are still surrounded by working sheep and cattle farms. The countryside is glorious.

When we finally arrive in Keld our attention is immediately focussed on our home for the night. The Keld B&B and luxury yurts. They weren’t kidding. These yurts are luxury. Comfortable beds, fireplace, tea and coffee, strings of little fairy lights that are powered by a tiny solar panel that hangs on the door. The room’s focus is none the less it’s candle lit supper table. Dale and I looked at each other in silence for several moments soon after sitting down at the table and quite quickly thereafter broke into laughter. It was so surreal. We were dreading this night but it has turned out to be excellent.

Michelle and Ian have owned this little farm for four years. This place was a hit on trip advisor and now I know why. Michelle did our laundry. She then brought us a drink and took our dinner order. This included steak and mushroom pie, mashed potatoes and peas with sticky toffee pudding and double cream for dessert. This was all delivered to our yurt by the very smiley and convivial Michelle.


Supper was delicious. You would have to pay infinitely more money at a high end restaurant to beat that. And just in case you had already forgotten, this was in a yurt. Outrageous and awesome. Tomorrow takes us along the Swaledale Road to Reeth. The journey is around 16 km’s but packed with quaint scenery. Sadly rain is forecast so we will be testing our metal against the elements.

As always please check the link to my Instagram page on the menu, three diagonal bars in the top right of the home page gets you there.


p.s. It’s 3:15 GMT and the rains have come with a furious vengeance. A luxury yurt is a noisy place in times of rain.


  1. Sounds incredible. Another great post. You guys are doing awesome. …. I hope it pours rain. Not that I want you to suffer … okay I kind of do, just cuz it will make for great reading and, even if you do suffer, multiple pints will ease your pain.


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